Cut
A diamond's cut and shape
are two entirely different aspects of the stone, yet, they are relevant to one another. The two can be confused because the
way a stone is cut will ultimately determine it's shape. For example, a lapidary (stone cutter) will analyze the rough stone
to decide how to utilize as much of the rough as possible, sometimes yielding a Square, Marquise, Emerald, Trilliant, Round
etc. Once the shape is "understood" then the cutting begins. The cutter then needs to start the process of the cut; Proportion,
Symmetry, and Polish.
The Proportion of the stone is how the length, width
and depth related to each other.
The Symmetry of the stone is how the facets on one
side of the stone "mirror" the other.
The Polish of the stone is how smooth the surface
of each facet is finished.
The maximum cut grade
a diamond can receive is what is known as triple zero ideal or "000". Where the proportion, polish and symmetry receive an
ideal or "0" on the same diamond. Incidentally, the only diamond laboratory that can certify a diamond to this caliber is
the American Gem Society or A.G.S. and the only shape that can receive this is a round. There is no other standard of cut
on any of the other shapes other than the Hearts on FireŽ "DreamŽ" cut (69 facet cut corner square) which receives a "0" on
symmetry and a "0" on polish from the A.G.S. The A.G.S. uses a numeric scale on 3 C's, (cut, color and clarity) "0" being
the highest or most rare and 10 being the lowest or least rare. The cut is the only industry wide accepted way to alter a
stone. Here are the dimensions and descriptions of cut in a diagram. The table percentages on an ideal cut are 53-57% of the
overall diameter or width.
Color
You may be surprised to learn that not all diamonds are colorless. Diamonds can vary in shades of almost any color. In fact,
most have at least some color even though it may not be detectable by the naked eye.
Color is usually misunderstood
because it simply is a rarity scale. The Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A.) has established the most recognized scale
for color and it begins with colorless, D,E,F-then near colorless, GHIJ- then faint color, KLM.-then very light color, NOPQR-then
light color, STUVWXYZ. The last, not lowest, and most rare is Fancy. This particular grade covers Intense and Vivid colors
of Yellow diamonds.
As opinionated as we all
can be, no one can argue the fact that as much light can be dispersed from a L or M as a D or E of equal cut and clarity.
Therefore, if you like a little or a lot of body color that is really up to the way you see the diamond. Consider the point
that the better the cut of a diamond the less color saturation you'll see under normal lighting conditions. So, if you have
a "000" J-VS2 it will refract more light than an A.G.S. " 4" or "GOOD" cut D-VS2 diamond.
Flourescence
A separate but related
characteristic is the diamond’s ability to fluoresce under ultraviolet (UV) light. Our sun emits some UV light, but
it is usually not great enough to detect fluorescence. The most common source of UV is a black light. When exposed to UV light,
many diamonds will give off a distinctive glowing blue coloration. Although fluorescence may be displayed in various colors,
blue is the most common in diamonds. The fluorescence of a diamond is defined by its intensity as either None, Faint, Medium,
Strong, or Very Strong. Although fluorescence is a characteristic that can be measured, it is seldom an issue when selecting
a diamond.
Clarity
Almost all diamonds contain very tiny natural imperfections
known as inclusions.
To determine a diamond's
clarity, an expert views it under 10 power magnification. In addition to internal inclusions, surface irregularities are referred
to as blemishes. These two categories of imperfections-inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external)-make up clarity.
The fewer the imperfections
the diamond has the more rare it is and therefore more valuable. Many inclusions are not discernable to the naked eye and
require magnification to become apparent. A laboratory-certified clarity rating of SI2 represents the point at which inclusions
are technically not apparent to the average naked eye.
Contrary to popular belief,
higher clarity does not always mean a more beautiful diamond. If the inclusions are not visible to the naked eye, a higher
clarity may not really improve the appearance of a diamond but rather the rarity and price. A higher clarity is
more desirable and valuable, but knowing that you have selected the right clarity for the right reasons is most important.
We recommend a clarity grade of SI2 or better.
Clarity is graded using
a very precise and complex method of evaluating the size, location, and visibility of inclusions. The diagrams to the right
show a top view of a round diamond. The inclusions, shown in red, are an approximate sample for each clarity rating. The plotted
inclusions may not be actual size for display purposes. Remember, the inclusions depicted in red are not visible to the
average naked eye until the I1-I3 clarities. Below is a description of each term.
FL |
Flawless: |
Shows no inclusions or blemishes of any sort unter 10x magnifiaction
when observed by an experienced grader. |
IF |
Internally Flawless: |
Has no inclusions when observed under 10x magnification by an
experienced grader but will have minor blemishes. |
VVS1 & VVS2 |
Very Very Sligtly Included: |
Contains minute inclusions that are difficult for an experienced
grader to observe under 10x magnification. |
VS1 & VS2 |
Very Sligtly Included: |
Contains minute inclusions (crystals, clouds, or feathers) that
require effort for an experienced grader to observe under 10x magnification. |
SI1 & SI2 |
Sligtly Included: |
Contains inclusions (crystals, clouds, or feathers) noticeable
to an experienced grader under 10x magnification. The clarity and brilliance of a few diamonds in this category may be slightly
affected. |
I1, I2
& I3 |
Included: |
Contains inclusions (possibly large crystals or feathers) obvious
under 10x magnification. These inclusions may be visible to the naked eye and may also affect transparency and brilliance. |
Always be sure to ask
about whether or not the diamond is fracture filled or clarity enhanced, and always ask to see a diamond certificate that
matches the diamond!
Carat
The carat weight of a diamond is generally
associated with its size. While a carat is really a measure of weight, this association is typically made because it naturally
follows that the larger a particular diamond is the more it will weigh.
The word carat originated from the carob tree or Ceratonia siliqua. The tiny seeds of this tree
are well known for their uniformity and consistent weight. Traditionally diamonds and gemstones were weighed against these
seeds until the system was standardized, and one carat was fixed at 0.2 grams. One carat is divided into 100 points. A diamond
weighing one quarter of a carat can also be described as weighing 25 points or 0.25 carats. Points are generally not used
to describe weights over one carat. Here are some examples of different weights for round diamonds and their corresponding
sizes. These may not be actual size due to your monitor. The approximate girdle diameter is displayed in millimeters.
Why do prices exponentially increase based on carat?
The
rarity of a diamond is greatly affected by its size. The rarity of a 1.00 carat diamond is much greater than twice that of
a .50 carat. Although it only weighs twice as much, the 1.00 carat is statistically much more difficult (rare) to mine than
the .50 carat. For an easy comparison of price and size, see the table below. Prices are approximate and based upon D Color,
internally flawless, excellent cut.
Carat Weight |
Diamond Price |
| .50 ct. |
$4,000 |
| .75 ct. |
$7,000 |
| 1.0 ct. |
$17,000 |
| 1.5 ct. |
$30,000 |
| 2.0 ct. |
$55,000 |
| 3.0 ct. |
$125,000 |
| 5.0 ct. |
$300,000 |
Metals
Choosing a precious metal.
Gold-
Gold is one of the most precious metals of all time. Just
the thought of gold can evoke thoughts of treasures and kingly riches or Spanish bullion and Egyptian tombs. Because of gold’s
pure untainted nature it is commonly used to set the most precious gemstones and most all other gemstones as well. Gold can
be mixed with other metals such as nickle (which can be allergenic), copper, zinc, palladium and cobalt to make up alloys
of 10k, 14k(585), 18k (750) or 22k gold. Yellow gold is typically a mixture of copper and nickle or, as a nickle substitute,
palladium or cobalt may be used to enrich or strengthen the gold. White gold is made using a higher content of the white metal
(palladium, nickle or cobalt) mixed with the desired content of gold, then is rhodium plated for a whiter, brighter look.
Rhodium can and will wear off depending on how active you are, but can be re-plated by most jewelers. Zinc is added to make
green tints and more copper is used for pink tints commonly seen in Black Hills gold designs. Gold can be worn for most occasions
but will eventually wear away. It can be polished to restore its shine but try to limit the frequency of polishing due to
the overall wear factor.
Platinum-
Platinum is the most rare and most coveted of all precious
metals. Platinum stirs up thoughts of wealth and prestige, of eternity, purity and durability. Platinum is a true “white”
metal that is very malleable yet very durable and dense and is 60 times more rare than gold! It’s name comes from the
Spanish word Plata, which actually means silver or less than silver. Platinum is usually made in two different qualities,
950 or 900, but be absolutely sure to check because some jewelry may have much less platinum but sold as platinum nonetheless.
The metal that is most commonly used to mix with platinum is Iridium. This small mixture allows the platinum to remain very
pure yet gives jewelers the ability to work with it. Platinum will never tarnish and is hypo-allergenic. It can be scratched
but not worn, it merely displaces itself whereas other precious metals will wear away. Platinum can be re-polished to restore
its original luster and sheen.
